Among the 4Cs, it is the cut of the diamond that determines its reflective capacity, or in simple terms, its brilliance. Basically, the cut of a diamond depends on a few factors: angles, proportions, symmetrical facets, brilliance, fire, scintillation, and finishing details.
A diamond’s shine and brilliance are
directly proportional to the light reflected back to our eyes from the top
portion of the diamond, and the surface angles that reflect more light is based
on the diamond cut. If a cutter wishes to maximize the reflection and shine of
the diamond, then he/she must ensure to place all the diamond surfaces at an
angle so that the observer sees the light exiting the diamond from the top. So,
if you want an exquisite and brilliant diamond jewellery
focus on its cut.
The light enters the diamond through
its topmost surface area and bounces back internally several times before
exiting. The internal bouncing of light on a different surface area of the
diamond gives it sparkle or shiny appearance after it finally reaches the
observer’s eye.
Subsequently, the angles at which all
the diamond surfaces are cut determines the overall brilliance and sparkle of
this precious metal. All a cutter has to do is keep the entering light from
leaking the diamond surface while ensuring to maintain the weight and shape of
the diamond as specified by the vendor.
By now, you must have understood that
all that glitter in the diamond is the result of how good the light reflected
inside its surface. And a good cut diamond primarily has three properties:
brilliance, fire, and scintillation, all of which are determined by the
diamond’s interaction with the light.
The reflection of all the white light
from the surface and inside of a polished diamond to the observer’s eye
determines the brightness and thus brilliance of the metal. When the light hits
the diamond surface from the outside, some portion of its enters the diamond
while some of it bounces back. The light that reflects back from the inside of
the diamond as well as the light that bounces back together form the brilliance
of the diamond and its brightness. Simultaneously, the diamond cut also creates
‘dark’ or ‘contrast areas in the diamond, which are a result of shadows created
by the cut or by objects present between the light source and the diamond.
Simply, the more amount of reflected
light from the top or crown of the diamond combined with
strong contrast, the more its brightness and brilliance.
Often the light reflecting out of a
diamond also appears in ‘rainbow’ colour or fire. This effect occurs when the
light travels and bounces internally across the different surfaces of the
diamond before exiting it. If the diamond is cut and polished in such a way
that it allows the light to properly bend and disperse within, then the fire
effect is clearly seen. In other words, if the diamond is colourless, then
colours are better dispersed, increasing the fire effect. Also, this effect is
better observed in the areas where light sources are fewer and dim.
Usually, when the diamond is tilted
or moved around in hand, intense light flashes and sparkle are emitted from the
stone. These black and white flashes are most prominent in the highly lit areas
where light enters the diamond from multiple angles.
To achieve maximum brilliance, a
diamond must possess both fire and scintillation (sparkle).
Poor Cut Diamond: Diamonds that leak
a significant amount of light entering it is placed in the poor or fair cut
grade. These stones often have a deep or shallow height that leads to light
leakage, leaving the diamond sparkle less or with low brilliance.
Good Cut Diamond: A diamond that
sparkles and has some degree of brilliance falls into the good cut category.
Although such diamonds do have some light leakage, the overall appearance of
the stone is sparkly, brilliant, elegant, and shiny. Often these diamonds are
either larger or smaller from the perfectly cut diamonds in measurement.
Very Good Cut Diamond: A diamond with
a very good cut has minimum light leakage and high brilliance. Diamond stones
are often cut and chiselled to achieve such cut so that it captures most of the
light entering it and reflects back through the top or crown of
the diamond.
Excellent Cut Diamond: This is the
highest grade diamond that represents the topmost stones in the world. They are
masterfully and skillfully cut, crafted, and polished to reflect almost the
entire light at such an angle that it achieves maximum sparkle and brilliance.
There is nil to low light leakage.
Note:
Always consult a gemologist before you finalize on the diamond cut to ensure
that expert advice is the same as your choice
The round cut diamond is the most
common and popular among cutters as well as the consumers. For many years,
diamond cutters have worked to perfect the round cut so as to maximize its
brilliance and sparkle. However, while selecting round cut diamond jewellery, a
person must select a higher grade of the diamond to achieve more fire and
brilliance.
The brilliant colours emanated by
princess cut diamonds differ at the centre of the stone and its four corners.
The corners display distinct shades when the diamond is moved or tilted in
hand, just like the fire property. Usually, princess cut diamonds come in the
square as well as rectangle shape and show utmost brilliance sparkle due to the
way they are cut and polished.
This cut is perfect for maximizing
the carat weight by laying emphasis on the diamond size. The blueprint of the
diamond is determined by its length to width ratio, which gives an idea about
the diamond and also makes the fingers of the wearer appear long and slender.
Similar to the shape of a cushion or
a pillow, this cut offers high brilliance and sparkle owing to its rounded
corners and big facets. Usually cushion cut diamonds are available in two
shapes: square and rectangle.
This diamond cut is a copy of emerald
stone. The emerald cut gives impeccable optical appearance due to the
rectangular facets step-cut into the diamond’s pavilion. The emerald cut
diamond showcases the original clarity of the stone through its large
rectangular tables, which also makes the colour of the diamond quite prominent.
Although it might appear the same to
cushion cut, radiant cut diamonds have uniquely cut/shape corners rather than
round. This cut combines the brilliance of radiant and round cut together to
give the right amount of sparkle, brilliance, fire, as well as shadow to the
diamond.
Pear-shaped diamond can be termed as
the half-marquise cut. It combines the brilliance of a round cut with marquise
cut and takes up a tear-drop or pear shape. It is necessary to opt for
excellent symmetry to achieve maximum brilliance.
Similar to the emerald cut but not
quite so. An Asscher cut diamond displays square facets step-cut into the
diamond’s pavilion with corners that are cut similar to radiant cut
diamond.
As the name sounds, oval cut diamond
stones resemble the oval shape and have gained popularity as the engagement ring stone. It
has an incredible brilliance, similar to the round brilliant cut, but also has
the advantage of accentuating long, slender fingers.
Fancy Cut Style: Besides,
the classical round-cut, fancy cut incorporates every other style and cut.
Brilliant Cut Style: As
the name suggests, the purpose of the brilliant-cut is to maximize brilliance,
and cut the diamond facets in such a way that they achieve that brilliance. The
round cut is classified as a brilliant cut.
Step Cut Style: This
style has diamond facets cut such that they run parallel to each other and edge
of the diamond stone. The appearance of stepped facets gives it the name
step-cut style. Asscher, emerald, and baguette-cut are a few examples of the
step-cut style.
Mixed Cut Style: As
per the name, mixed cut combines brilliant-cut with step-cut to give an optical
effect that captures the brilliant style with the dimensions of step cuts. One
popular example of mixed cut is the princess cut.
Basically, it all comes down to your
requirement, knowledge, and likes. Although you must always strive to find the
excellent grade diamond for your jewellery, the shape and carat matter too.
However, if you’re looking to shop for diamonds within a fixed budget, then
good grade diamonds are also available on Melorra that
are within the price range that you might be looking for that offer high
brilliance, usual weight, and different colour.
But it is advised to look for the
clarity and cut of the diamond and always choose the ones that are either
excellent or good grade stones. And consult a gemologist before finalizing on
the diamond and the jewellery.
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